GIRLY POP PLANTS
Alocasia Care Guide
Light
Bright, consistent light supports strong growth and vibrant coloration.
Watch for:
- Stretching or leaning: The plant may need more light.
- Small or weak new leaves: The light may not be bright enough.
- Bleaching or scorched areas: The light may be too strong or too close.
- Compact, sturdy growth: Your plant is likely happy with its lighting.
Light cannot create variegation, but it can help your plant display the best coloration its genetics allow.
Growing Medium
Alocasias can grow successfully in several different mediums. There is no single “perfect” option—the best medium is one that works with your environment and watering habits.
Common options include:
- Sphagnum moss: Retains moisture while allowing airflow around the roots.
- Chunky aroid mix: Usually contains ingredients such as bark, perlite, coco coir, and soil for a balance of moisture and drainage.
- Pon: A mineral-based, soil-free medium commonly used in self-watering or semi-hydroponic setups.
- LECA: Lightweight clay balls that hold moisture and allow plenty of oxygen around the roots.
- Perlite: A lightweight medium often used for rooting corms, propagations, or plants recovering from root loss.
- Fluval Stratum: A fine, moisture-retentive substrate often used for corms and young plants while they develop roots.
Why I Use Sphagnum Moss 💖
I grow my Alocasias in sphagnum moss because it works well with my greenhouse cabinets, self-watering pots, and personal care routine.
For me, moss is:
- Moisture-retentive without being heavy
- Airy when kept loose and fluffy
- Gentle around young and developing roots
- Easy to monitor in clear pots
- Helpful for maintaining consistent moisture
- Lightweight and easy to work with
- Less messy than soil, chunky mixes, or loose mineral substrates
- Easy to remove gradually when it is time to transition the plant
Moss also allows me to check root development without frequently disturbing the plant. In a clear pot, I can monitor moisture and watch for healthy new roots.
The key is to keep the moss loose and lightly moist. Moss that is tightly packed or constantly saturated can limit airflow and increase the risk of root rot.
Your Alocasia does not have to remain in moss permanently. However, because its current roots developed in moss, allow the plant to acclimate to your home before transitioning it into another medium. 🌿
Watering
I check my plants approximately once a week, but I do not automatically water every plant. My self-watering pots make it easy to see which plants need water and which still have enough.
During my weekly check, I:
- Check the reservoir and moisture level.
- Refill only the plants that need water.
- Leave plants alone when the moss is still moist.
- Watch how quickly each plant uses its water.
Large, established plants may drink faster than small or newly rooted plants. Always check the moss and reservoir rather than watering strictly by the calendar.
Fertilizer & Root Support
I use Growth Technology Foliage Focus as my primary fertilizer and measure it according to the instructions on the bottle.
I also use Root Drops, following the product instructions, to encourage healthy root development.
- Always measure and dilute products as directed.
- Do not make the solution stronger to encourage faster growth.
- Monitor the leaves and roots for signs of stress.
- Remember that your plant’s needs may differ outside my greenhouse environment.
Before Repotting
Moving to a new home is already a major adjustment. Repotting immediately adds root disturbance and a new moisture environment at the same time.
Repotting too soon can contribute to:
- Drooping or curling
- Yellowing or leaf loss
- Broken or damaged roots
- Slowed growth
- Root rot
- Dormancy or decline
I recommend waiting at least 2–4 weeks before changing the growing medium. Some plants may need longer.
Your plant may be ready when:
- Its leaves are stable.
- It is not rapidly yellowing.
- Its roots remain firm and healthy.
- You see new root or leaf growth.
- You understand how quickly the moss dries in your home.
Repot sooner only if there is an urgent concern, such as root rot, a foul smell, or severely waterlogged moss.
Transitioning Out of Moss?
Choose a time when your plant is hydrated, stable, and actively growing.
- Lightly moisten the moss before removing it.
- Gently loosen the moss without pulling on the roots.
- Soak stubborn pieces in room-temperature water.
- Remove only roots that are clearly soft, mushy, hollow, or rotting.
- Move the plant into a pot only slightly larger than its root system.
- Keep the plant warm and under bright, indirect light while it adjusts.
- Avoid making other major environmental changes at the same time.
You do not need to remove every strand of moss if doing so would damage healthy roots.
Adjust your watering routine for the new medium:
- Chunky soil or aroid mix: Water thoroughly, allow it to drain, and water again when partially dry.
- Pon or semi-hydro: Introduce the reservoir gradually while new roots develop.
- Moisture-retentive mixes: Check below the surface and avoid constant saturation.
Change one major condition at a time and give the roots time to adapt. Happy roots make happy plants!
GIRLY POP PLANTS
Philodendron Care Guide
Light
Bright, consistent light supports fuller growth, stronger leaves, and vibrant coloration.
Watch for:
- Long spaces between leaves: The plant may need more light.
- Leaning toward the light: Rotate the plant or move it closer.
- Small new leaves: The light may not be bright enough.
- Bleaching or scorched areas: The light may be too strong or too close.
- Compact, sturdy growth: Your plant is likely happy with its lighting.
Light cannot create variegation, but it can help your Philodendron display the best coloration its genetics allow.
Growing Medium
Philodendrons can grow in sphagnum moss, chunky aroid mix, pon, LECA, or perlite.
I use sphagnum moss because it is:
- Lightweight and less messy than many other mediums
- Moisture-retentive while still allowing airflow
- Gentle around young and developing roots
- Easy to monitor in clear pots
- Simple to remove when transitioning the plant
Keep moss loose, fluffy, and lightly moist. Moss that is tightly packed or constantly saturated can limit airflow and contribute to root rot.
Watering
I check my Philodendrons approximately once a week, but I only water the plants that need it. My self-watering pots make it easy to see which plants still have water available.
During your check:
- Feel the moss beneath the surface.
- Check the water level in the reservoir.
- Refill only when needed.
- Leave the plant alone if the moss is still moist.
- Avoid allowing the moss to remain completely saturated.
Larger, established plants may use water faster than small or newly rooted plants. Always check before watering instead of following a strict calendar.
Fertilizer & Root Support
I use Growth Technology Foliage Focus as my primary fertilizer and Prop Drops to encourage healthy root development.
- Follow the instructions provided with each product.
- Measure and dilute carefully.
- Do not make the solution stronger to encourage faster growth.
- Monitor the leaves and roots for signs of stress.
Too much fertilizer can damage sensitive roots and cause brown or crispy leaf edges.
Before Repotting
Moving to a new home is already a major adjustment. Repotting immediately adds root disturbance and a new moisture environment at the same time.
Repotting too soon may cause:
- Drooping or curling
- Yellowing or leaf loss
- Broken or damaged roots
- Slowed growth
- Increased risk of root rot
Wait at least 2–4 weeks before changing the growing medium. Your plant may be ready when its leaves are stable, its roots are healthy, and you see new growth.
Repot sooner only if there is an urgent concern, such as root rot, a foul smell, or severely waterlogged moss.
Transitioning Out of Moss?
Choose a time when your Philodendron is hydrated, stable, and actively growing.
- Lightly moisten the moss before removal.
- Gently loosen it without pulling on the roots.
- Soak stubborn pieces in room-temperature water.
- Leave small pieces behind if removing them would damage healthy roots.
- Trim only roots that are clearly mushy, hollow, or rotting.
- Use a pot only slightly larger than the healthy root system.
After repotting, keep the plant warm and under bright, indirect light. Avoid making other major environmental changes while the roots adjust.
Climbing & Support
Some Philodendrons naturally climb and may develop larger, more mature leaves when given support.
You can use:
- A moss or coir pole
- A wooden plank
- A stake
- A trellis
Secure the stem loosely without tying the leaves or new growth. Trailing varieties can be allowed to cascade or guided around a support.
GIRLY POP PLANTS
Corm Care Guide
Watering
The Puddle Method
I sprout my Alocasia corms using the puddle method.
The corm sits directly in a very shallow puddle of water—just enough to cover the bottom surface of the container.
- No moss
- No soil
- No LECA
- Never fully submerge the corm
- Keep the top of the corm above the water
The goal is to provide consistent moisture around the bottom of the corm without drowning it.
Watering 💦
Check the water level regularly and add more as it evaporates.
- Maintain only a shallow puddle.
- Do not fill the entire container.
- Replace the water if it becomes cloudy or develops an odor.
- Avoid allowing the corm to dry out completely.
- Make sure the corm is not becoming soft or mushy.
Too much water can increase the risk of rot, while too little can slow root development.
Airflow
Airflow is essential when sprouting corms in water.
Good airflow helps prevent:
- Mold
- Rot
- Stagnant conditions
- Excess moisture buildup
If you use a humidity dome or enclosed container, leave a small opening or vent for fresh air. Humidity is helpful—stagnant air is not.
Light & Warmth
A corm does not technically need light before it develops a leaf because it cannot photosynthesize yet. However, grow lights can provide gentle warmth that encourages early root development.
At Girly Pop Plants:
- Corms are placed under grow lights from the day they are started.
- They receive 12 hours of light daily.
- Lights remain on from 8:00 AM–8:00 PM.
- The growing area stays warm and protected from sudden temperature changes.
Avoid placing corms in harsh direct sunlight, which can overheat the container or encourage algae growth.
What to Expect
Corms grow on their own schedule. Some may root quickly, while others take several weeks or longer to show progress.
You may notice:
- The corm becoming slightly plumper
- Small roots developing from the bottom
- A growth point beginning to swell
- A small shoot emerging
- The first leaf slowly unfurling
A corm that is firm and stable may still be healthy even if it has not produced visible growth. Be patient and resist the urge to constantly pick it up or check it.
When Is It Ready to Pot Up?
Once the corm has healthy roots and established foliage, it can be moved into your preferred growing medium.
When transitioning:
- Prepare the new medium before removing the corm.
- Handle the roots gently.
- Avoid bending, pulling, or compressing new roots.
- Use a small pot that fits the root system.
- Keep the new medium lightly and consistently moist.
- Maintain warmth, humidity, and bright indirect light.
I use loose sphagnum moss because it provides consistent moisture and airflow while the young root system continues developing.
Signs of Trouble
Watch for:
- Soft or mushy corm: Possible rot
- Dark, slimy areas: Too much water or insufficient airflow
- Fuzzy growth: Possible mold
- Unpleasant odor: Stagnant water or decay
- Dry, shriveled corm: Insufficient moisture
If a corm remains firm and has no unpleasant smell, give it more time. Corm care is mostly moisture, warmth, airflow, and patience.